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Re: My go at MM2 costume

PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 9:24 pm
by Max59
Here's more pics of spanner and pouch. I used the handcuff case from the cop belt. I think it's a bit too tall. For the spanner I took in a pic of the resin ones that I found on here and the welder just eyeballed it. I gave him the length estimate of 8 in.
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Re: My go at MM2 costume

PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 6:40 pm
by tk4013
Very nice 8-)

Re: My go at MM2 costume

PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 9:55 pm
by Max Replica
That is a really nice spanner, especially considering the guy just eyeballed it.
And I should know, I've held the original. : )
(Actual length of that particular spanner is 10 inches by the way)

Did you do anything in particular to get that nice weathered patina to the metal?

Yes, the case is too tall, but I liked the aged leather look of it. One thing you could do is cut across the top front of it to remove some height and then pull the tongue down lower (assuming you can lower the stud), and assuming you want to go through the trouble.

How much did your welder charge (if you don't mind me asking - feel free to just PM me if you want) - I'd consider sending him one of my resin ones to have a metal version made.

Re: My go at MM2 costume

PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 11:13 pm
by Max59
Thanks for the comments guys!

The weathering I used on the metal and leather is from http://www.bragdonent.com/weather.htm The stuff is great it sticks to almost anything and it doesn't weaken the leather. If it's used on metal that is new use matte spray and build it up in layers. To apply it use a paint brush that has been cut down, like a miniature scrub brush.

I think I may just try shortening the pouch. If I mess it up they are cheap, I think like $3 at the surplus.

If I remember right he charged me $65+-. Here's his website, he has great sense of humor. http://www.santeewelding.com/ He doesn't have email though as far as I can see. If it helps you could send it to me and I'll take it in. I'd like to get the proper sized one also.

Re: My go at MM2 costume

PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 6:50 am
by Max Replica
I have some of that particular brand of weathering powder and they sell more colors at a hobby store near me. Which color(s) did you use?

Hm... I'll think about doing the welded spanner. I'll let you know.
Thanks!

Re: My go at MM2 costume

PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2010 12:09 pm
by Max59
I used 'soot' and then a coat of matte spray, then a light rubbing of 'dark rust'

Re: My go at MM2 costume

PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 11:39 pm
by Max59
Jacket (southbeach) is pretty much done. Couldn't find the correct shoulder pad :(. Need some tweaking on the weathering on jacket and shirt, but it's enough for the party.
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Re: My go at MM2 costume

PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 6:51 am
by Max Replica
Hey, some people don't even weather at all.
I think it looks pretty good. You could always upgrade to one of our correct resin shoulder plates in the future.

I started off two years ago (or was it three?) with an outfit that I threw together in a few days and was just meant for one Halloween party. I thought that would be the end of it. But then I got the crazy idea that I wanted the world's most accurate MM2 costume no matter how long it took or how much it cost. I'm just now finally nearing 100% complete, but the things I've learned and crated (along with Karol) certainly make it easier for others who follow after me.

Re: My go at MM2 costume

PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 3:49 pm
by Max59
I would never had attempted mine had it not been for all the great tutorials and info you guys have a gathered over the years. Thanks for the comments!

Re: My go at MM2 costume

PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 8:00 pm
by Max Replica
Just a few of comments after looking at your pictures again. First, here are a couple of things you can do to improve your outfit for little to no money: Get yourself some cheap black leather dye and dye some of those brown straps to black. Only the second strap from his holster is truly brown, basically all other straps on this costume should be black (though some of them are worn down in spots so that a bit of brown shows through)*
Second, cut that red rag shorter. It looks way too long.

*My advice for creating the look of aged leather items is to dye brown leather black using Kiwi brand leather dye (their dye, not their "scuff cover" - it's available on Amazon and sometimes at Walmart). Kiwi is a cheap, watery leather dye that may require a few coats before it looks black. But that's what you want. Other leather dyes are too strong and will soak all the way through, making the next step too difficult - The next step is to use acetone to rub away a bit of the black leather dye (after it dries) in areas that would be rubbed or worn, revealing some brown underneath. Modern black leather items are black through and through, whereas vintage black leather gear like Max has is brown leather with a coating of black dye.

In other news - thanks for the tip about Santee Welding. I contacted him and had him make me a spanner based on my resin copy of an original (I sent it to him so he could make a 1:1 version). It is larger than the one you had made cost more than I expected ($93 with shipping for those who really want to know) but it was still cheaper than getting an original Australian spanner. And finding an original Aussie hydrant wrench that is the perfect screen-accurate shape is difficult since there are MANY variations (I know someone with a large collection and all of his are slightly different.)
The only thing I'm not 100% happy with is the ring at the bottom, which I think is a bit too thick, but I think I can bore out the hole a bit larger at some point. I think I'll try the same weathering method you did. I'll post pics of how it turns out (but probably in a different thread so I don't hijack yours too much).